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Travelling While Black Part 2: Ghana—A New Perspective

I wrote in a previous post about my travels to the Balkans and Eastern Europe, and while I absolutely loved my experiences there, I couldn’t help but notice that I seemed like the only Black person travelling. (Or at least it felt that way!) And I remember feeling that it was somewhat disconcerting and a bit isolating. There was no way to blend in without curious stares, nothing threatening or malicious, but stares nonetheless. But travelling to Ghana was a totally different travel experience for many reasons, but specifically because for the first time in my life anywhere (besides living in New York City), I was not a visible minority.

Actually, the feeling of not standing out happened on the flight from Amsterdam to Accra. Just boarding, there were all these Africans or people of African descent in line! Only the Dutch crew and a few other passengers stood out as a minority. Obviously, it makes total sense; it just was my first experience flying to an African country...so, new to me.

And when I arrived in Accra travelling to Kumasi the next day by bus, it became quite clear of what I might be in for in terms of being a “non-visible minority”. Certainly, having been born and raised in the United States and currently living in Canada, and having never set foot in Africa before, I did stand out with my Western dress, American mannerism, etc., not to mention the fact that I only spoke English and not the local dialect. So I was noticed, but I wasn’t an overwhelming object of curiosity. And, that was so refreshing!

It’s a bit superficial, but I felt I had found my people, so to speak! J And, of course, I had in a way. I am not sure of my exact lineage beyond a small village in Mississippi, à la “Roots” per se, but knowing a bit about the history of the Atlantic Slave Trade (which I was fortunate to get a further glimpse of while visiting slave castles in the Cape Coast), I know that my roots are somehow there.

So travelling while Black in a Black country...definitely a new perspective.

                                                                             At the Cape Coast

                                                                           Cape Coast Castle

                                                                              Door of Return

                                                            

Ghana Slideshow

My Ghana Trip Slideshow. The added music is "Wassiyé" by Habib Koité, who is not from Ghana, but I love the tune!!

Amsterdam!!!

I didn’t really plan that much for my first trip to Amsterdam. The city was a connection for my flight to Accra, Ghana. I had about 3 days, and apart from making a reservation through AirBnB, I thought I’d just wing it, with the only key sights being the Anne Frank House, the Van Gogh Museum, the Rijksmuseum, and gazing at beautiful canals, houseboats, flowers, and sampling a little bit of the local “culture.”

Walking around Amsterdam without a map is the greatest!! What a fantastic walking city! I’m not really good with directions or following a map, so I love when I can just throw caution to the wind and check out a town. Since my AirBnB digs were conveniently close to a tram stop, and my AirBnB host had given me some rudimentary directions in getting to the city centre, and the weather was nice, I was set for a great walk around.

I stumbled into World Cup Madness surrounded by revellers in orange! It wasn’t hard to get swept up into the enthusiasm!

Amsterdam: bikes, bikes, bikes...canals, canals, canals...bridges, bridges, bridges...houseboats, houseboats, houseboats...flowers, flowers, flowers...a beautiful city!

The Van Gogh Museum. I had bought my timed ticket online, which was really helpful since it’s a very popular museum; and rightly so. I absolutely loved every bit of it! Van Gogh has always been a favourite of mine, but visiting this museum helped me learn so much more about his life. I held back a little and only bought three postcard prints.

Anne Frank House. Truly hard to describe the feeling of walking around inside...but the feeling I was left with was “hope.”

I know I’ll be back to Amsterdam and give it more time, with some exploration of other parts of the Netherlands. The little bit I was able to sample was fantastic: the people, the simple beauty, the ease of navigation, and the vices. 

In Search of Kente Cloth!!

There I was getting into my volunteer teaching tasks (planning my lesson on present perfect) when the day turned into a hunt for authentic Kente cloth!

Since I would be leaving on the weekend (time really flies!), my "boss" thought I'd better use some time to get the Kente cloth because I would also need to speak to a seamstress to get an outfit made. I really didn't know the process would entail all of that, but so much of my experience had been learning how things work, so I was up for it.

After my boss spoke to someone who knew someone who knew someone (all part of the process), we made a mad dash (by way of the typical rickety taxis) to Kejetia Market. I wish everyone could experience that place: the largest open-air market in West Africa! There is simply nothing like it anywhere I've ever been. Just imagine an insane amount of people, an insane amount of activity narrow alleyways, smells, sweat, music, someone speaking on a loudspeaker, chaos...yet order, women transporting their goods on their heads, a constant flurry of comings and goings, stalls packed with anything you could want. And then add sweltering heat to the mix. But somewhere inside was the Kente cloth.

We got lost about seven times! While gulping water, I stupidly asked if there was a map of the market. Of course not...all you need to do is ask the ladies in the stalls and they would direct you where you needed to go.

We found the area where women oversaw stalls filled with Kente, men & women sat at sewing machines putting the strips together, men moved sacks and sacks of cloth in and out, and money was being exchanged. My boss found his contact and all I had to do was find the design I wanted. My boss would handle the negotiations. I had already been instructed to NEVER pay the price that was given at first; I had to haggle. I was pretty intimidated, though, so my boss took over...he said he was happy to do it. "

Thank goodness he haggled on my behalf, because I don't think I would've been able to get what I wanted and with the price I wanted. A taxi on the way back and we were on our way to the seamstress. 

All-in-all, it took four hours from getting to the market and picking out what I wanted to discussing designs with the seamstress and him taking my measurements! Not quite like going to the mall! Lol! 

Teaching!

Teaching at the school today trying to inspire some writing about "Football Friday" using past tense verbs! It kind of worked!

Plus two of my little charges for the walk back to the children's home. Just adorable!

Learning About Ashante History

Today got to visit the Manhyia Palace Museum and learned some history of the Ashante Kingdom and its people: fascinating. And prompted me to make plans to go South next weekend and visit the Cape Coast slave forts and Elmina Castle. Definitely part of my African American history, too. 

Also got to a little bit of the Kejetia Market, the largest one in West Africa! It's overwhelming with so many people and so much stuff! You name it, it's there! It was hard to take decent pics because there's constant movement!! But I managed to get some gifts for friends. Definitely have to improve my bargaining skills!

Fun Football Friday!!

Kids had a great day of football matches and celebrations! Fun day for everyone!!

Success!!

Second full day of school and I made it there on my own (this is quite a victory because I have to take one tro tro to a "junction" and a taxi to another). Gave my lesson, which went pretty well...kids seemed to pay attention, but maybe it's because I'm new! AND, got three little kids back to the orphanage from nursery school, all while having to cross a little stream! It's way more responsibility than I'm used to! Lol! Had a little help from my boss, Luwe, though. And had a gecko greet me when I got home! All-in-all, I think I starting to figure it out!

Luwe

Big Day in Ghana

Whew! What a day in Ghana! Took my first (of many to come) tro tros (a dilapidated mini van filled to capacity, with religious sayings on it, that is the main way to get around town...I will never criticize the RTC again!), spent half the day at the orphanage, where I served porridge (a first), made beds, got a lesson in Twi from the kids who only wanted hugs & attention, and a tour of the their garden & little farm. Then market madness!! I thought India had blown my mind...but I'm overwhelmed by Ghana!

Being greeted at the orphanage

My guides!

The hustle and bustle!

Yams!

Day Three in Ghana

Well, I'm right in the middle of the rainy season here in Ghana (I thought I was at the end of it! Ha!), which means that this morning until early afternoon, it rained like I've never seen rain!! Sheets, buckets, cats, dogs! :-) Then things calmed down in the late afternoon, but it didn't cool down! Lol! So it turned into a lazy, hot Sunday hanging with the host family and eating some traditional food: peanut soup with fish and fufu...delicious, and me trying to learn a little Twi, the language here. Tomorrow, first day of work!

My hosts!

Peanut soup and fufu

Day Two

Well, different birds chirping in the morning! As would be expected!! And it's slightly cooler in the morning...only slightly! But, not too many plans as it were...for my first full day in Kumasi. The volunteer coordinator is coming around 12:00 to get me so I can get internet...this should be interesting! With my own router or something! Welcome to Africa! And hopefully, while I'm out, I'll get some mosquito netting and pass by a pharmacy to get some skin cream. Hmmmm...will definitely see how this works! I get the feeling like Albania & India, stuff doesn't work on Western time standards. Who knows how long it will take to get some of these things done...might a guy who needs to contact another guy who isn't available or something! Will see what the day brings!

OK! Got to jump into busy Saturday shopping in Kumasi (will hopefully get to the Kejetia Market tomorrow...it's supposed to be the biggest one in West Africa!). And I indeed did get Internet!! My own little wifi box! Who knew?! And it's working great!

About $50 (CAD) and pretty much my only option for Internet access. I'll leave it with the organization for the next volunteer.

Also got medicated skin cream...with no prescription! At the moment, I kind of like how things work here! Got most objectives met, but will get mosquito netting on Monday...one was left from a volunteer. And I've got insect repellant and closed doors...and that seems to be working. Plus I'm faithfully taking the malaria pills, with no side effects as of yet. I'm trying not to get paranoid about malaria, but I am still a little concerned. 

Got to walk around a bit seeing how thing are and getting the lay of the land. Got close to the Kejetia Market, but I'll try to venture there tomorrow.

Work starts Monday! So I may not get a chance to explore a lot until next weekend. It's been very cool so far, though. Hot! But that's to be expected. I hope I get used to it soon. And very cool, friendly people.

My own little water supply! Provided by the host family.

A little friend around the house.

First Full Day in Ghana

The Bus!

So after a long flight and an almost longer entry process at the airport, Lisa, who is the volunteer organizer in Accra, found me a room on the university grounds, one of the dorms! AC and a little TV!! But most importantly, a big, comfortable bed was waiting!

After quite a nice rest, Lisa was there to greet me and we had breakfast (scrambled eggs with veggies & toast and coffee). The plan was to get a bus ticket for Kumasi. 

It was a rainy morning and a lot of people didn't have raincoats or umbrellas.

And the first thing I noticed was how crowded it was. So much traffic and so many people! It reminded me of India, but minus the tuk-tuks! But when we got to the bus station...whew! It seemed that everyone was on the move. Inside there was a monstrous line...almost like the airport! And the place was sprawling with people, kids, bags, giant boxes! What chairs there were were doubly filled! And although it had stopped raining and things would've/should've cooled off a bit, it was crazy hot inside and the few little ceiling fans were of no use unless you were directly underneath them!

Lisa took one look at the line and told me to wait...she would find someone outside who could maybe get a ticket. And it occurred to me that this is how it works in some places. You just need to know the guy who knows a guy who can get you what you want: bus ticket, driver, etc. Things work on knowing people. Why do we in the West insist on having reasonable processes for things? Small lines, purchase a ticket or reserve on line, have a seat? Why not either struggle through the process of too many people & not enough services or find the right guy who can get you what you need? :-)

After about 10 minutes, Lisa came back and asked me if I was ok sitting in the front of the bus. Why, yes, Lisa. That sounds fine to me! We escaped outside and I was offered a seat (because I looked so old & feeble or out of courtesy? At my age, one never knows anymore!) But sitting let me watch the chaos around me: taxis honking and jockeying for position, cars circling dropping people off & picking them up, people "directing" traffic, busses trying not to hit people lined up just about everywhere, people trying to see newspapers, snacks, water, and just about anything you could want, people trying to negotiate getting in the front of the line, hand gestures, exhaust fumes. Whew! All with a recording of a man preaching blaring through some portable speakers.

About 40 minutes of that and my bus was ready to board. Thank goodness for Lisa who negotiated something with someone to take care of my bag underneath. She gave a phone with a new chip in it (this is the thing I'm starting to understand: everyone seems to have a throwaway phone that they just change SIM cards with...and why not? Vodafone is still happy!) so Sally, the program coordinator could contact me while I was travelling.

Bus filled to capacity and more (people were sitting in the aisle) and we were off! We started with a prayer from one man standing in the aisle...but after a few "Amens," he kept going! And the prayer turned into a sermon, complete with a call & response from the passengers: "Yes, Jesus" and "Praise The Lord," and "God is Good." The whole kit. He stopped on the middle and passed around some gel that we were to put on our "pains." Seemed like Tiger Baum to me, but I put it on my shoulders which were achy from the first few days of the backpack. More preaching and then he opened his briefcase and sold some of he gel! I thought we'd have him for the whole trip, but on a pretty long stretch of unpaved road, he got off and took a returning bus.

Then the driver, or rather the "driver's mate," put on "Sheena." Ugh...I kind of wanted the preacher back!

Sights from the Bus

Beautiful countryside! Small villages with roadside markets selling EVERYTHING!! Even livestock...most also amidst the goats & chicken I saw "other" livestock: rats, which I think is considered bush meat. Crazy traffic!! Lots of people going about their daily business. Trucks and taxi vans with Bible messages scrawled on the windows, signs for Christian churches of every sort, from Mormons to Seventh Day Adventists to Baptists and Pentecostals. 

At the rest stop I got my first hot pastry: a fish pie! For 3 Cedis, a pretty yummy deal!

It occurs to me that this place will be challenging, yet if I remain open to whatever happens, it'll be a blast!

And how cool is it to NOT be a visible minority!!!! Yes, as soon as I speak or you check in closer to my "traveller" garb, I'm a minority. But right off the bat I'm as brown as everybody else! And white people stand out! Somehow this makes me smile. :-)

First night-time view.

My diggs for the next three weeks!

My first view of Africa from the sky! Must have been Algeria or Tunisia. :-)